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PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL

PALDOR PEAK CLIMBING

Description:
Paldor lies at the southeast end of Ganesh Himal marking the junction of the Tiru and Karpu Dandas at the head of the Mailung Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli Gandaki River. The name Ganesh is taken from the elephant-headed Hindu god of good luck, probably the most popular deity in the Kathamndu valley. On a clear day the Ganesh Himal, with the icy fangs of Pabil (7,101m/23,300ft), Logsang Karpo (7,150m/23,458ft), Ganesh I (7,406m/24,298ft) and Ganesh V (6,950m/22,802ft) can be seen forming an imposing backdorp to the northwest of Kathamndu. The quickest approach to Paldor and Ganesh Himal is from Sabru near Dunche in the Trisuli valley, which can be reached in a 6 to 7 hours drive from Kathmandu. From here the trail crosses the Langtang Khola to Sabrubesi. After crossing the Bhote Kosi river the route leads via Tamang villages of Tangjet and Gatlang, then heads northwards along the ridge before dropping into the forest above Mailung Khola to pick up the newly built road that leads to an army post. The moraine filled valley below Paldor is reached from here in another days walk. A more interesting approach is the trek from Sundarijal (on the outskirts of Kathmandu valley) through the hills of Helambu and over the Gosainkunda range to Sabru. The return from the mountain can be made by trekking directly to Trisuli Bazaar.

South - East Ridge
John Cleare and Ian Howell first climbed this in 1974. Between Tilman's ascent in 1949 and Cleare's expedition of 1974 it is possible that Paldor had no other ascents. Since then the mountain has received more attention and many new routes added.

North - East Ridge
From base camp, follow a path below the conspicuous moraine on its east side as far as Paldor Tarn. Here there is a small and inconspicuous lake to the south of the peak called Fang. Cross the stream issuing from the lake and aim for the east ridge of Fang. This boulders slope is the Paldor Glacier east at an altitude of 5,200 meters, in a magnificent amphitheatre of alpine - scale peaks. The glacier at this point is flat and uncomplicated by crevasses.

Paldor Peak Climbing Itinerary:
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, day at leisure
Day 02 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley
Day 03 Kathmandu to Dhunche; bus (1950m)
Day 04 Trek to Syabrubese
Day 05 Syambru Besi to Thangjet (1676m)
Day 06 Thangjet to Yuri Kharka Camp
Day 07 Yari Kharka to Below Lari Mine
Day 08 Lari Mine Camp to Base Camp
Day 09 BC Rest Day for Acclimatize
Day 10 Base Camp to High Camp
Day 11 Climbing Palder Back to Base camp
Day 12 Base Camp to Lari Mine
Day 14 Lari Mine to Yari Kharka
Day 15 Yari Kharla to Thangjet
Day 16 Trek to Sybru Bensi (1450m)
Day 17 Drive to Kathmandu (1350m)/Hotel
Day 18 Free day for shopping or relax
Day 19 Drive to Airport for flying your own destination

Cost includes
Arrival and departure transportation, 3-meals a day during trekking, Camping gear (two-man tent, foam mattress, kitchen tent, dining tent and toilet tent) Supporting field staff including professional climbing guide, cook, kitchen boy, porters as well as their necessary insurance, meals and allowances Peak permit fee , conservation and national park area entrance permit and first aid service.

Cost excludes
Hotels in Kathmandu, International departure airport tax, Personal Insurance, Personal equipments - sleeping bag, down jacket, waterproof jacket, kit bag etc. Equipment allowance (Legally each expedition must be providing equipment allowance for all Sherpa, guides and porters. This allowance is necessary for brand new equipment (sleeping bag, shoes, crampons, down jacket, raincoat etc.). Travel medical insurance and emergency evacuation cost, laundry, telephone calls, alcoholic beverages, bottled drinks, tips, gifts, souvenirs, etc.

Peak Climbing Information:
Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has categorized 33 climbing peaks 2 different groups ‘A’ and ‘B’ which are given below. Please check the related fee accordingly.

In exercise of the powers conferred by Nepal Government (NPG). Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya as listed in Appendix "1" These rules will come force at once.

Payment of Fee:
1 - 4 Persons: USD 350
5 - 8 Persons: USD 350 - Additional Cost USD 40 Per Person
9 -12 Persons: USD 510 - Additional Cost USD 25 Per Person

Garbage Deposite (Refundable):
USD 250 (Group Deposite)

Protection of Environments:
Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials such as fix ropes, pitons etc. shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

Revision of the Regulation:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Nepal Government

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