Kongma Tse Peak

Formerly called Mehra Peak or simply Mehra, this attractive mountain rises to the north of the Kongma La above the Khumbu glacier opposite Lobuje, and is one of several small summits, including Pokalde, that make up the long South-West Ridge of Nuptse, between the Khumbu and Nuptse Glaciers. Seen from Gorak Shep, the summit has a diamond shaped hanging glacier above a steeply inclined rock wall that makes up the mountain's North Face, which is in turn slashed by a diagonal ice ramp leading to the lower edge of the glacier.

From the south the mountain is much more approachable. Seen from the lakes east of the Kongma La, a small, stepped glacier descends from the summit between long, rocky arms that make up the mountain's South and South-East Ridges. The margins of the glacier provide the normal route of ascent.

As with Pokalde the views from the summit are spectacular, especially so because of the nearness of the massive south face of Nuptse. The views northwards towards Pumori and the Lho La are also outstanding.

Suggested Peak Climbing Itinerary:
Elevation: 5849m
Region: Khumbu, Everest
The route: Kathamndu-Everest.
Best season: Sept. to Nov.& April to May.
Facility: Teahouse lodges- on the way of trekking route & climbing days camping.
Program duration: 18 day

Suggested Itinerary
Day 01: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla.
Days 02-08: Trek Namche-Thyangboche-Dingboche.
Day 09: Establish high camp near Kongma La.
Day 10: Climb Kongma Tse peak.
Day 11: Trek to Gorakshep.
Day 12: Climb Kalapattar and/or visit Everest Base Camp.
Days 13-17: Return trek to Lukla.
Day 18: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu.

This peak can be combined with others like Phokalde, Island Peak, or Lobuche East. The trekking route can include crossing the Chola pass into the Gokyo valley.

Cost includes
Arrival and departure transportation, 3-meals a day during trekking period, Camping gear (two-man tent, foam mattress, kitchen tent, dining tent and toilet tent) Supporting field staff including professional climbing guide, cook, kitchen boy, porters as well as their necessary insurance, meals and allowances Peak permit fee and Ground surface transportation, conservation and national park area entrance permit and first aid service.

Cost excludes
Hotels in Kathmandu, International departure airport tax, Personal Insurance, Personal equipments - sleeping bag, down jacket, waterproof jacket, kit bag etc. Equipment allowance (Legally each expedition must be providing equipment allowance for all Sherpa, guides and porters. This allowance is necessary for brand new equipment (sleeping bag, shoes, crampons, down jacket, raincoat etc.). Travel medical insurance and emergency evacuation cost, laundry, telephone calls, alcoholic beverages, bottled drinks, tips, gifts, souvenirs, etc.

Peak Climbing Information:

Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has categorized 33 climbing peaks 2 different groups ‘A’ and ‘B’ which are given below. Please check the related fee accordingly.

In exercise of the powers conferred by Nepal Government (NPG). Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya as listed in Appendix "1" These rules will come force at once.

Definition:
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Nepal Government, Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.
Permission:
Any person or Mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix "1" must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix "2"
Permission may be climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only.
Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks.
The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included.
Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned Mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis.
Each climbing party will be given a permit as prescribed in Appendix "3". The right permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association.
Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Nepal Government for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team Members.

Payment of fee: All rates effective from 18 September 2002:
A climbing fee for 18 Trekking Peaks mentioned in Appendix "1" will be charged as follows;

Note : Maximum number of members in one team is 12.
Garbage Deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks
A Garbage Deposit fee of USD 250.00 payable to NMA is required to obtain permits for all 33 NMA peaks. Refunds on the Garbage Deposit shall be as per NMA provisions.

Peak Climbing Rules and Regulation:
The permit is valid for the period of one month only.
The maximum number of persons allowed in a group is 12.

** For extending the permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week.
** The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association.

Refund:
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some others reason the fee already paid will not be refunded.

Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar or Guide, who must be registered with NMA.
Functions and Duties of the Sirdar/Guide.
To Assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food etc. and to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than prescribed time limit in the Mountain.
To ensure that the climbers comply with the term of their permit.
To ensure that the climbers, (trekkers) follow the specified route.
To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.
To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post.
The Sirdar/Guide will be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished.
The Sirdar/guide will be provided with the following facilities :
1) Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of His Majesty's Government Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.
2) Food and accommodation (tent/s).
3) Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above base camp.

Insurance:
All employees going above base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of NRs. 3,00,000/- (Amended 1999)

Nomination of Representative in Kathmandu:
Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative should be an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

Submission of report:
On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu the party will submit a report to NMA in the form prescribed in Appendix "4".

Power to cancel the permit:
NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason.

No-compliance of the regulation:
Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsociable or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal. NMA may recommend to the Nepal Government to take necessary measures in accordance with article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

Protection of Environments:
Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials such as fix ropes, pitons etc. shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

Revision of the Regulation:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Nepal Government