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Mongar and
Lhuentse Dzongkhag - Mongar and Lhuentse
The differences between Eastern and Western Bhutan are far
greater than the high pass that separates them. Perhaps like
the Scots and the English, there are subtle but marked
differences. History has played a significant role with the
kingdom only being unified with the east at the end of the
last century and prior to that many wars separated each
side. The eastern dialect is so different from the western
dialect that the two groups find it difficult to understand
each other. The journey to the East is one of the most
beautiful in all the Himalayas. Rising out of Ura, the
highway climbs steeply to Thrumshing La (the second highest
pass, 3,800m-12,465ft.) along the West to East highway at
Thrumshing La (during the Winter the pass can be closed for
several days after heavy snowfalls) where the mountains of
east Bhutan can be seen during clear weather. The descent
from Thrumshing La to Lingmithang is astonishing for several
reasons. The road drops from 3,800 meters to 650 meters in
only a few hours passing from pine forest through
semi-tropical forest to orange groves. Carved out of the
side of the mountain, in parts the road's edge borders a
sheer cliff which drops thousands feet. Arriving at Mongar
marks the beginning of your eastern Bhutan experience. Many
towns in eastern Bhutan are built on the sides of the hills
which contrasts to the west where they develop on the valley
floor. Mongar Dzong was built in 1953 (original Shongar
Dzong was distroyed by fire) on the orders of the Third
King, Jigme Dorje Wangchuck. The Royal Guesthouse, Zhonggar
Lodge is located near the dzong enjoying a pleasant view
from the garden over Mongar Valley.
Some of the finest weaving villages in Bhutan are found
outside of Mongar in Lhuentse and Kuri Chhu. These are the
traditional 'kushitara' weavers who have been the weavers to
the Royal Family for generations.
Trashi Yangste Dzongkhag - Trashi Yangste and Duksum
On the drive to Trashi Yangtse you pass the small town of
Duksum located on the Drangme Chhu and its tributary. It is
a few kilometers past Gom Kora A large boulder sits in the
garden of Gom Kora (Gomphu Kora) Temple and its is said that
if anyone can climb below the rock and emerge from its
summit, he will be forgiven of his sins. Duksum is nothing
fancy but it is a small weaver's town where you can find a
fair amount of weavers producing some very nice work. The
landmark of the town is a original iron chain suspension
bridge built by Thangtong Gyalpo or Lama Hazampa (Lama
Iron-bridge) in the 1600's. Duksum is the main supply town
for all the high mountain villages that surround it.
Trashi Yangtse is a small town rich in Bhutanese arts and
legend. Chorten Kora is one of the only two huge stupas/chortens
in Bhutan done in the Nepalese 'eye' style. Each Spring
Chorten Kora is the sight of one of the most famous
festivals in Bhutan. Although quite remote the Chorten Kora
Tshechu attracts people from all parts of the country.
A Brief History of Chorten Kora (18th century) :
Lama Ngawang Loday wished to construct a replica of the
Bodnath stupa in Nepal in memory of his late uncle Lama
Jangchhub Gyeltshen and to subdue a demon dwelling at the
site where to chorten was to be constructed. Guru Rinpoche
and his brothers constructed the Bodnath stupa popularly
known as Jarung Khashor in their previous lives.
Lama Ngawang Loday and his friend Lama Zangpo from Tawang,
Arunachal Pradesh (India) set on a journey to Bodnath. Both
returned with a model of the chorten that was carved from a
radish. They were determined to construct similar chortens
in Tawang and Trashiyangtse. Lama Zangpo constructed at
Pangchanang valley in Tawang, which is known as Gorzam
Chorten. Lama Ngawang Loday constructed his on the floor of
the Trashiyagtse valley. Twelve years in the construction it
is called Chorten Kora. Blessed by HH Je Yonten Thaye, the
demon that had harmed the people of the valley was subdued
and banished. Thereafter, it is said that the people of the
valley continue to live in peace and harmony. The Chorten
Kora Festival celebrates this history.
Trashigang Dzongkhag - Trashigang Dzong and Radhi
Trashigang is the eastern-most point on the highway. Eastern
residents use Trashigang to trade and the town itself is
usually a hive of activity, especially around the bus
station where buses are frequently leaving for Thimphu and
Paro in the west and Samdrup Jongkhar and India, only a few
hours to the southeast. A short distance is Rungjang and
Radhi are considered two of Bhutan's most renowned weavering
villages. Specializing in natural dyed raw silk textiles.
Trashigang is also a melting pot of hill tribe people who
come to the town to trade. In particular, the unusual Merak
and Sakteng people come to Trashigang to trade yak's butter
for the provisions that they need in the mountains. Merak
and Sakteng are located about 50 miles east of Trashigang
close to the border with India's Arunachal Pradesh.
Trashigang Dzong sits on a jagged piece of land jutting out
from the town and is the first landmark that can be seen
from the road winding up to Trashigang. The Dzong was built
in 1659 and commands a spectacular view over the valley for
which it is the administrative center. The Dzong is
significant for the fact that it only has one courtyard.
The university town of Kanlung is located 25 kilometers (16
miles) south of Trashigang. This is the only University of
Bhutan, Sherubtse College, founded in 1978. |
